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Openwork embroidery (Calado) is one of the most important traditional crafts in the Canary Islands. Its origin dates back to the population that arrived on the islands after the European conquest, although over time it has followed its own path of evolution. Today, a great variety of openwork styles can be found across the different islands.
The technique basically consists of removing threads from a section of patterned fabric, which are then re-stitched or joined with needle lace techniques to form intricate geometric designs with delicate and beautiful motifs.
Openwork embroidery is one of the most deeply rooted craft traditions in Fuerteventura, where a unique local style called redondillo majorero has developed. Nevertheless, openwork artisans from Fuerteventura, known as caladoras majoreras, produce a wide range of designs. For many years, openwork items were exported to mainland Spain, and the work of these artisans represented an important source of income for local families.
However, the commercialization of these products declined due to competition from Eastern embroidery techniques that imitate Canarian openwork but are sold at lower prices.
Today, a few artisans continue to work in this craft, creating beautiful pieces that may not compete in price with imitations, but are unmatched in beauty and elegance.
Wooden loom or embroidery frame, support stands, needles, scissors, and embroidery drum.
The most commonly used loom consists of four wooden bars. Two of them have attached a long strip of fabric, to which the piece to be embroidered is sewn. These bars are placed parallel to each other, with slits at the ends where the other two wooden bars are inserted perpendicularly, forming a square or rectangle. For smaller pieces, a circular embroidery drum is used instead.
Creating an openwork piece involves many steps. It begins with cutting a piece of fabric, whose dimensions depend on the item to be made: bedspread, tablecloth, doily, wall hanging, table runner, garment, etc.
Next comes the marking stage, which must be done very precisely, as the final perfection of the work depends on its accuracy.
Marking involves removing threads from the parts of the fabric that will remain unworked — that is, the sections that won’t be embroidered. The marked portion is then divided into sections, removing as many threads as necessary for the particular stitch or pattern, thus creating a design composed of open spaces and remaining threads.
Once this is done, the fabric is sewn to the loom on the parallel sides. The other two sides are secured with straps extending from the fabric to the loom’s edges. The fabric is then tightened, the loom is placed on the support stands, and the embroidery work begins.
Using a needle and thread, the artisan knots and interlaces the threads, forming delicate patterns known by names such as:
The finished pieces are highly varied and include:
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